There is nothing more classic, comforting, or essential to a fall wardrobe than a good Burberry trench coat. Age, gender, and geography do not matter—it has universal appeal. What is the secret of the Burberry trench coat, one of the most influential garments in modern fashion? How has it endured for more than a century, and why do we continue to love it so much? These are the questions explored in the new V&A and Burberry exhibition, The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon.
Celebrating Burberry’s 170th anniversary, the exhibition brings together rare material from the Burberry Archive and the V&A’s collection. It offers a concise history of the trench coat, tracing its evolution from practical outerwear and military attire to a global fashion icon—one rooted in a distinctly British sensibility.
Making the exhibition even more special is its setting in the museum’s rarely seen Prince Consort Gallery, whose mahogany cabinets once housed fabrics from the textile collection. The intimate display offers a fascinating portrait of Burberry, a fashion house that has come to epitomize timeless British luxury.
Beginning with “Invention,” the exhibition explores Thomas Burberry’s development of cotton gabardine in 1879 and how its use in the trench coat established the garment as highly desirable protective outerwear that seamlessly combined function and style. It also reveals how the trench evolved into a design classic that has remained relevant for more than a century.
The section devoted to “Craft” examines the meticulously constructed elements of the Burberry trench, including its hand-finished collar, distinctive House Check lining, storm flap, and detachable throat latch—all designed to provide protection when the weather turns.
The exhibition concludes with “Creativity,” my favorite section, spotlighting 19 runway looks from the past two and a half decades, including designs by chief creative officers Christopher Bailey and Daniel Lee. Together, they demonstrate the remarkable and continual reinvention of the Burberry trench.
Curated by Oriole Cullen, Senior Curator of Fashion and Textiles at the V&A, and Carly Eck, The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon is on view at the V&A South Kensington through January 3, 2027.
